A Coastal Getaway to Portland & Bar Harbor in April

Maine is a seasonal destination.  We just happened to go in April.  We landed in Portland, spent the night, and then drove up to Bar Harbor the next day.  I have been to many places in my life, but I had never been to Maine.  I quickly learned that a lot of businesses, including hotels and restaurants, close for the season and generally do not open back up until May.  Many of the tour excursions are the same way.  I wanted to take a boat ride out to one of the several lighthouses along the coast, but all of the excursion boats were closed. 

We were very fortunate, weather-wise.  It was a little chilly at times, but the skies were clear and the overall temperature ranged from the mid to high 50’s to the 70’s.  That was nice. 

One of the primary purposes of traveling to Maine this time of year was to visit my adopted sister.  She was being promoted in the Coast Guard, and the ceremony was located on the shores of Jordan Pond in Acadia National Park.  It was beautiful.  Although a lot more crowded than I expected.  On our first day out from Portland, we traveled to Bar Harbor (which is where Acadia National Park is located), and after the ceremony, we checked into the Atlantic Oceanside Hotel.  This was one of only few hotels open for business, and it was packed. 

After checking in, we drove to downtown Bar Harbor.  It reminded me of most small coastal towns with small storefronts, gift shops, and a view of the harbor.  I think Friday Harbor in Washington’s San Juan Islands is about as close to the scene as I can compare it to.  We ate at the famous Geddy’s Seafood Restaurant.  It bills itself as “The Best Seafood Restaurant in Bar Harbor, Maine.”  While I don’t doubt that, I’ve had better seafood in some of our land-locked states.  The food was way overpriced, and the Lobster Rolls were very small.  I had fish and chips.  When it arrived, I thought I helped Captain Ahab find Moby Dick.  The fillet of fish was huge.  Once I was able to crack through the overcooked batter, the fish was good.  In all, 6 of us ate there and only drank water.  Our bill was still $200.  After dinner, we returned to our hotel until deciding to go find some ice cream.  In downtown Bar Harbor, there is an ice cream and candy store called “Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium.”  I walked in and thought I was in Heaven.  The smell and number of selections were almost overwhelming.  It almost reminded me of some of the great candy and chocolate stores at Disneyland.  The cost was about the same too, but for me, I thought it was great.

The next day, we drove as close to the coast as we could, back to Portland.  Here we had dinner at “The Porthole Restaurant & Pub” on the waterfront.  This time I had the shrimp.  Again, the food was excellent, but way overpriced from my experience.  I ordered a shrimp cocktail, expecting a little lettuce, a lot of chopped celery, and shrimp hanging off the side of the glass.  What I got was a bowl of ice with 4 shrimp piled on it, along with a couple of lemon slices.  Can I say very disappointing?  The waitress asked me how many shrimp I wanted, and I said 4, which seemed reasonable.  It turned out that they charge $4 per shrimp! (not prawns, but SHRIMP) Now I was really disappointed.  I even ordered their fried shrimp and chips.  It was very good, but again, way overpriced. (I think I got 7 or 8 shrimp and French fries that I am sure were cooked in the same oil) We picked this place because of the show “Diner’s Drive-Ins and Dives” featured it, but found it did not live up to our expectations.

Even the hotel we are staying at in Portland, the Embassy Suites at the airport was old and run down.  It was a different brand before Hilton bought it and changed its name after a remodel.  It was clean, the breakfast and evening reception food was great, but the rooms were small and outdated.  If I were a large person, I would not have been happy.  It almost reminded me of some of the European hotels I’ve stayed in.  The bathroom and shower were tiny, and its sink was in the open, making it difficult to brush my teeth in the morning, without waking my wife. 

As we tried to make plans to see some of the sights around Portland, we found that everything we wanted to see, was closed for the season.  Everything that is, except for the Cryptozoology Museum.  Yes, I had to go read all about Bigfoot, Aliens, Jackalopes, and Mermaids.  It was well worth the $10 entry fee.  I found that there are strange creatures all over the United States and not just in my own backyard in the Pacific Northwest.

I would safely say the highlight of this trip was the Maine Military Museum.  4 of us walked in shortly after it opened and had the very best 2-hour tour of anyplace I have ever been.  Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and seemed to take a lot of pride in each of the 1000’s of displays.  We were even given special treatment by the Director/Curator, Lee Humiston.  There was no doubt in each of our minds that Lee and his team are true patriots.  Thank you, Lee, for all you do to help people remember the sacrifice of all those who have fought, died, or been imprisoned on behalf of this great country. 

Sadly, Portland, Maine and Portland, Oregon are not too far apart when it comes to politics, the homeless, and anti-government protests.  We tried to tour the Longfellow museum in downtown Portland and had to walk past bums and protesters to get to the museum.  It was sad to see these very ungrateful and unmotivated people.  What made it even more sad was right afterward, we went to the Military Museum and were brought back into reality. 

I’m sorry for letting these personal thoughts enter my writing, but it was very impactful.  I know I will never go back to Portland, Maine (Or Portland, Oregon) except for the Maine Military Museum.  Have I mentioned how much I liked that place? 

Food on our third day in Maine was very good.  I had a Crab Melt at Betty’s Diner.  A small off-the-beaten-path building that was easy to find using Google Maps in Portland, Maine.  I would have to say it was the best meal I had in Maine.  It was reasonably priced and almost more crab than I could eat.  (Notice I said “Almost?”)  The staff was friendly and very helpful.  The place was packed, but the wait was only about five minutes.

Overall, I am sure Maine is a beautiful State, but everything is closed until May or June.  We got lucky and had some nice days.  We were able to get some great photographs and, most importantly, we were able to be part of our sister’s promotion ceremony.  Our sister was immediately transferred to North Carolina, so I doubt I’ll be going back to Maine anytime soon.